Kathleen Goes to School - Darjeeling Days

Kathleen Goes to DARJEELING

It was early February and the Calcutta winter was still making pleasant days, before the warmth of a short spring preceding the heat of a Bengal Summer.  The mornings were chilly, and by the time the evening sunset came, one welcomed a shawl or a woollen cardigan.   It was 1942 and British India was very much seen as an ally for Britain in the days of war.  However, things were changing, especially in Calcutta where the freedom fighters were increasing their nationalism and their determination for a free India.  It played on Jack’s mind, mainly out of concern for Kathleen who was reaching school age.  Was she better off in India, or should she go back home with Kate to Scotland?

Jack had received a letter in the usual Thursday Mail delivery, from Mother Superior of Loreto Convent, up in Darjeeling.   He had written to her seven days before,  requesting  admission into the school for Kathleen.  He had finally made up his mind after discussing at length with Jim two weeks prior.  The two friends had sat in Firpo’s,  almost a home from home for them, given the frequency in which they,  along with many others spent afternoons over lunch, or enjoyed dinner and parties throughout the social seasons of India.

Jim was one of Jack’s most kindly friends, and as he and Bella did not have children of their own, they doted on little Kathleen. The two friends had both ordered scrambled eggs, and tea with hot buttered toast and talked over Jack’s options.

‘I often wonder if I should send Kate and Kathleen home’, confided Jack. ‘I am glad the boys are at home  Jim - I feel they have a degree of protection in Scotland.’

The previous year Jack had written to Mary Ann (Kate’s sister) and asked her to start making plans for Harry and Jack to leave Scotland, and come to India where Jack felt it may be safer. Mary Ann replied to Jack with the news that the passage was arranged and booked, but no sooner had that letter come, that it was decided the waters of passage were not safe.  Harry and Jack were to stay put in Dundee.  As the situation unfolded and the war continued, Jack started to wonder if India was as stable as he had thought.

Jim replied to Jack with persuasion ‘Jack, the whole world is in turmoil. Where is it safe? To travel now could be dangerous for Kate and Kathleen. The boys are settled and being taken care of back home. At least here you three are all together, now is not the time for anyone to leave.’

Jim had told Jack of a wonderful school in the beautiful hill station of Darjeeling.  ‘The Loreto schools started  in India at the request of the Archbishop of Calcutta,’ Jim told Jack.  ‘The calibre of education is excellent’ Jim continued, ‘and Kate would be very happy if Kathleen was in a convent school’.

‘They have a Moto to ‘provide quality education for girls’, stated Jim. ‘And if you want you can speak with David Entwistle, who is the Managing Director of my mill at Budge Budge.  His two daughters went there and seem to be excelling’.

Darjeeling was around 400 miles from Calcutta, located in the Eastern Himalayas, and was originally a part of Sikkim.  It has been inhabited by the native tribe of that area - the Lepchas and the Bhutias. The piece of land which was to become Darjeeling was a crescent shaped mountain ridge - the name Darjeeling originated from the Tibetan words ‘dorje’ meaning thunderbolt, and ‘ling’ - a place or land - put together means ‘Land of Thunderbolt’.

The area of Darjeeling had been ‘found’ by two officers of the East India Company who had gone in 1829 to resolve a boundary dispute between Sikkim and Nepal.

The area was leased to the East India Company by the Kingdom of Sikkim as a place where their tired men and weary officials could escape from the hot plains, and convalesce in the cool, fresh air of the hilly resort.

The Loreto Schools had first started in India in 1841 when a young nun, Delphine Hart bravely travelled from Ireland to India with 7 other sisters and 5 Postulants.  She was responsible for setting up and overseeing the schools.  The first one was set up in Calcutta in 1842, and thereafter new schools and orphanages were built under the Loreto Fellowship.  The school at Darjeeling was set up in 1847.

‘Darjeeling is far enough off from the plains Jack.  Aside from the more healthy climate, there is far less risk of unrest there’ said Jim. ‘And besides, the journey is doable.  By train, you can reach within around 24 hours.  You and Kate can take some holiday there and see Kathleen, and Bella and I will be honoured to help too’.

‘I will talk to Kate tonight Jim’, said Jack as he ordered a fresh pot of tea, 'but you are right, I think this Loreto sounds like a good option’.

That night Jack broached the topic with Kate.

She and Kathleen had spent the day recovering in Chengail.  They both had been given their Typhoid inoculations the previous day, and had taken a bad reaction. By the time Jack got home that evening,  both were much better.  Ayah was getting Kathleen ready for bed. Every evening Kate would say evening prayers with Kathleen, and then Jack would sit in the wicker chair at the side of Kathleen’s small bed, and sing her Scottish Songs.  This was a ritual he would carry through with his grandchildren in years to come.  He would always finish up with an Indian Lullaby

‘Nini nini baba, nini nini baba.

Tora chini, tora chai, tora roti bahut accha’.

Chini makhan hogiya

Chota Baba Sogya.

‘Let’s take a walk Mother Dear’ said Jack.

Wrapping her shawl around her , Kate accompanied Jack for a walk through the compound.  Darkness had set in, and there was a light breeze from the river. The late shift at the mill was still running and the evening was carried through with the whirring, humming and drumming of the huge machines preparing the jute.  The night air was scented with the subtle fragrances of pansies, marigolds, and calendula - a collective scent of freshness mingled with the dampness of the brown earth.  Kate and Jack felt a deep contentment in their surroundings.  Out of the darkness appeared Kal, the compound dog who was so attached to Jack,  never missed Jack’s movements.

‘Kal seems to be a bit lame tonight’ said Kate. Jack watched the dog walk a little ahead of them and too noticed how Kal tried to save his left leg.   

‘I will speak to the chowkidar once we reach the old bridge’, replied Jack. 

The chowkidar was named ‘Ali’ and had a reputation for being something of a healer with both humans and animals.  ’The Doctor Dolittle of Chengail’, Jack called him.

By morning Kal was gone.  Ali had been unable to save him.  Kal had been bitten by a snake, and when Kate and Jack had seen him in the evening, he was probably in the early stages of the snake venom filtering through his system. Life and death in India - a fine balance.

The home mail had come that day.  Jack would read the letters himself once he was at home, but Kate told Jack much of the main news as they strolled by the banks of the Hooghly.

Mary Ann had written that Harry and Jack were both well, although Jack had a bad cough and had gone to the doctor. Jack was not a good patient as he could not sit still, would not take to bed, always wanting to be active and on the go. Mary Ann had given in and let Jack go to school. ‘A typical laddie of 13’, said Jack.  Harry on the other hand was quite the opposite. Mary Ann reported that Harry was well, but never had his nose out of a book.  Out of the two brothers Harry was content to be at home.

It was a relief to hear from Mary Ann.  There was a constant thread of worry for Kate and Jack, as with everyone. There was no end to the war in sight, and the worries of the situation at ‘home’ in Dundee along with the worries of possible threats to India from Japan played on Kate and Jack’s mind.

Returning to the Bungalow, the bearer poured Jack and Kate their evening whiskies.  Jack sat in his usual spot in the arm chair by the netted window.  Kate had the comfortable planters chair nearer to the breeze from the ‘punkha’, which was barely needed on that cool winter night.

Jack told Kate of his conversation with Jim, explaining that although Darjeeling was far off, it was a healthier climate than Calcutta, and should the unrest , due to not just the World War but India’s own war with Imperialism come to a head, Kathleen would be safer up in the hills.  To send a small five year old girl away to boarding school was something quite common in India, and despite both Kate and Jack knowing they would miss her terribly it was the best option for her.  It was decided -  Jack would write to the Mother Superior requesting admission for Kathleen.

Before going to bed, Jack quietly tip toed into Kathleen’s room.  She was sound asleep, her beloved Teddy Bear by her side.  Jack wondered how she would cope being away from them, but was firm in his decision, it was the best option.

The next 8 weeks were spent in preparing Kathleen for School.  As soon as Mother Superior had replied to Jack’s enquiry for admission, they had told Kathleen that she would be going to school in Darjeeling.  Such was the trust she had in her mummy and daddy that Kathleen accepted without complaint that she would become a boarder in the School high up in the mountains and that mummy and daddy would regularly come to see her.    ‘What about Ayah,  daddy’ asked Kathleen, her green blue eyes showing her concern.  “When will I see Ayah?  What will she do without me?, asked Kathleen.

Jack had already planned for this.  They wanted to keep Ayah for when Kathleen came back to Chengail on holiday.  It was the done thing that in such situations, the staff would be found alternative duties on the compound, and Ayah was going to help out with Joy and Stanley who had 2 boys and another on the way.  Then when Kathleen came back, Ayah would balance her time across the two bungalows.

Later that week, Kate had gone with Bella up to town with the long list of requirements for Kathleen to become a fully fledged Loreto Convent school girl.  3 dark navy pinafores, 6 white cotton blouses, 2 pairs black school shoes, 1 pair white tennis shoes, 12 pairs of navy knickers, 12 pairs of white socks, 1 winter jacket with 2 woollen hats and 2 pairs of gloves.  2 pairs of leisure trousers, 2 woollen jerseys, 6 thick winter vests, and 2 warm dresses.  The woollens could be bought in Darjeeling, but Kate preferred to knit them for Kathleen herself.  She enjoyed the chance to knit and make warm clothes again.  She missed her knitting in the early days of Calcutta life, not having a great source for wool, and not being sure how much of a need wooden clothes were.  Until she found a wonderful wool shop in the Bazar close to St Thomas Church up in town.  It was one of Kate’s pleasures to pop in after Sunday mass and choose wool for her next pattern.  Baba Moham was a tall, elegant man, who could always be found behind his wooden counter, aided by his son, who was always referred to as Chotu.   Baba Moham  had sharp features and the most mesmerising eyes Kate had seen.  They were not brown, and yet they were.  They were not blue. But yet they held blue. They were not grey, and yet, there was a haze of grey.  Moham was from Kashmir, and Jack told her that it was a typical feature of Kashmiris to have such unique eyes - maybe back home they would be described as Hazel.  As Kate became a regular customer she came to know that Baba Moham also had a daughter, but that his wife had died 4 years before, after suffering from Cholera.  Kate shuddered to hear of such deaths and all through her years in `India suffered the fear of contracting any of the tropical diseases, despite the inoculations they all had.

As well as wool, the shop sold a rainbow of threads, and ribbons and brocades, and what a beautiful display they made.  They spools of thread and ribbons and brocades  were organised by colour, the blues, the reds, the greens and yellows.  Dark blue, royal blue, powder blue, turquoise, sky, and blues verging into indigo, violet, lavender.  Pillar box red, crimson, magenta, baby pink.  Mossy green, lime green, jade, then mustard yellow, lemon, citrus yellow.

Kate would knit sleeveless pullovers for Jack, for the cool mornings and evenings of the Calcutta winter.  She would knit jerseys for Harry and Jack and send them home, and in one of his letters to his Ma, Harry wrote ‘Ma, Jack and I love getting your knitting. We know then how much you must be thinking about us whilst you are knitting them’.   She would chose bright red wools and knit cardigans for her niece Molly, and chose lighter colours of cream, pink, white for Kathleen.  Her favourite time to knit was just after her afternoon snooze, and before the bearer served afternoon tea.  Kathleen would be with Ayah and Jack would be at the mill - it gave Kate purpose and was a relaxing hobby.  Now with Kathleen going to stay in Darjeeling where winters were bitterly cold, Kate set to in knitting for Kathleen, and whatever she did not manage to complete, they would buy in the Bazars of Chowrasta, the main thoroughfare in Darjeeling.

The day before Kathleen was to leave for Darjeeling, the mill sounded two air raid alarms.  If there was any doubt in Jack’s mind about sending Kathleen to Darjeeling, they were quickly dispelled.  There were constant rumours about Japan’s displeasure of India.  They saw India as such an ally of Britain, in fact India ‘was’ Britain and to get Kathleen away from the city could only be a good thing.

On 26th February, 1942, Kate and Jack set off from Chengail to take Kathleen to start school at Loreto Convent, Darjeeling.

The launch boat at Chengail was late, so it was decided to order a car which would take longer  to reach the town, but they had plenty of time.  The trunk with Kathleen’s uniform requirements and the suitcase of Kate and Jack’s Darjeeling clothes,  had been sent the day before by lorry and hopefully would be in the luggage section of the station.  Ayah carried a small woven pack, and Jack marvelled that she could get all she needed for 7 days into such a small space.

Ayah was to accompany them which was huge relief to Kate. Jack had taken 8 days holiday from the mill so that they could stay for almost a week and make sure Kathleen settled in.

Reaching Calcutta at 4pm, the three of them met Mary and Bob for Tea at Firpos. They were going to have their ‘lie back’ at Mary and Bob’s before going to the station for their train to Siliguri.

From Siliguri Kathleen would join the school party and take the train to Darjeeling.  Kate and Jack would travel with Ayah separately.

The three of them were to board the train from Sealdah station, one of a the main stations in Calcutta.  Kathleen would travel with a number of other pupils who were travelling to Darjeeling. Kathleen had such trust in her mother and father that she wholly accepted this separation, and appeared unperturbed.   But it was hard watching that small figure in the Navy blue coat walk away in the dimness of that February morning, holding the hand of one of the Loreto Convent nuns who would accompany her small charges on their journey,   Kathleen’s long blue black hair was tucked up under her woollen beret, and Kate fought back the tears as they waved her off.  Tucked into Kathleen’s coat pocket was one of Kate’s handkerchiefs, scented with eau du cologne, as a comfort should Kathleen need it.  Kate and Jack boarded their carriage, a 2 berth coupe which Jack felt they needed to make Kate’s journey comfortable - the journey was long, with a stop off at Siliguri to catch the Darjeeling train.

The journey was uneventful. Jack made conversation with 2 soldiers who were travelling for a short break to Darjeeling.  Jack invited them to come and visit Chengail, on 7th March when Kate and Jack would be back.    Little did Jack know the trouble this invite would bring!

On arrival in Darjeeling, Mrs Clark, was waiting to greet them at the Eden Guest House, and both Kate and Jack were pleased with the comfortable and clean accommodation.  The guest house had 6 other rooms, and all of them were occupied.  Kate and Jack had a corner room just at the top of the staircase. It  had a bay window which overlooked the garden of Eden House.  If Jack craned his neck he could just see the top of the School Convent roof in the distance, and he wondered how Kathleen was doing , eager to see her later that day.  Jack marvelled at the garden of Eden House, which was blooming with the colours of a Darjeeling winter.

The room had two single beds, with ample blankets and heavy quilts which which were welcome in the winter season.  To the left of the bay window was a fireplace which was nicely stoked and would remain so when they were occupying the room.  Kate proceeded to unpack their cases, placing jacket and shirts and trousers into the large rosewood almirah which stood in the corner, opposite a chest of drawers. The smell of the moth balls was pungent as she opened the drawers, but was so necessary else clothes which went in complete would suddenly appear one day full of moth holes!  Years later, when Kate and Jack had moved back to Scotland, the loft of their beautiful bungalow would have the faint smell of moth balls from the chests and trunks which held the papers and clothes and memorabilia from those Calcutta days.

Jack in the meantime sat at the small writing bureau and wrote out correspondence that they would mail the next day from the post office at the bottom of Chowrasta.  He prepared the wording for the birthday cable they would sent to Jack - he was turning 14 later that month.  He wrote an air-gram letter to Harry and two more letters to his brother Henry, and one to Auntie Nannie.  He pondered as he sealed Auntie Nannie’s letter - she was now 89 and he wondered if he would see her again.  She was in good health but the inevitable would happen. But with every letter he sealed, every note he wrote, he truly sent with his deepest fondness for each person.  And those on the receiving end, felt the connection and love for Jack as they read his news.  For ‘the laddies’ he was proud, proud of how they had turned out to be. He did not know when he would see them again, the war making travel difficult.  And little did he realise that Kathleen’s first stay in Darjeeling would be short-lived.

At 3.30pm, Kate and Jack took a rickshaw to the Convent to pick up Kathleen.  They were taking her for tea to Plivas.  She had settled in well and they were both relieved.

The next day Kate and Jack took a ride on the ponies with Jim and Bella who had arrived that morning from Calcutta.  The air was cold but the mid morning sun made the track pleasant.  Bella took a tumble off her pony near to Jalahapur.  How it happened they did not know, but after a dusting down the party were ready to continue, returning to Eden House in time for lunch at 1pm.

Kate and Bella relaxed at Eden house - Kate wanted to finish a piece of knitting for Kathleen before they left.  Jack and Jim took a walk down to the convent to collect Kathleen for tea, stopping off at the Darjeeling zoo on the way.  They took a rickshaw back up to Chowrasta meeting Bella and Kate at Plivas.  They had all fancied going to Glenarrys Dinner Restaurant, but Kathleen so loved the chocolate slices at Plivas that no one could refuse her requests to have tea there for the second day in a row.

That evening after Kathleen returned to the convent, and the foursome enjoyed a trip to the Darjeeling cinema to see a film called ‘Private Affairs’.

The next two days were pleasant, and the friends enjoyed the fresh air of the cooler climate.

News of the war was troublesome, worrying, and no end in sight.  Continuous bouts of famine in Bengal were tragic, and Jack felt shame at the lack of preparation by the British Powers to cope with the food shortages. The ‘Quit India ‘movement was gaining momentum, although it would be some months until it was formally declared.  Soon, a devastating cyclone’s was to be the final nail in the coffin of Bengal’s rural poor.  Hard days were ahead.

But Kate and Jack felt comforted that Kathleen was settled into the Convent and felt such trust in the nuns, that they were confident in their decision to place her in this school, and already they had planned to visit Kathleen again in 3 weeks.

Kathleen’s school days had began.